D-Bot Core XY progress update and lessons learned

All the 3D printed parts for the D-bot Core XY were already printed but the issue was quality of the prints and the overall strength. The creator of the D-bot noted that PETG should be used instead of PLA due to the strength of PETG and an infill around 75%-100%. I did not have PETG at the time and I decided I would print out the parts in PLA and when the D-Bot was complete, I would re-print every single structural part on the D-bot in PETG. This was a mistake since I didn’t realize how monotonous building the frame was. Every part of the frame required precision so trying to get the nuts to slide into the V-slot extrusions were a pain and inserting bearings into the parts as well. I received my Hatchbox PETG filament a bit late but PETG is not an easy material to print as it requires a higher temperature, a heat bed, and tons of experimenting. PETG is supposed to not warp as much as PLA and adhere well but I had warping issues and had to switch back to PLA since PETG wasn’t working well overall.

Somehow, my UBIS hotend jammed and in the midst of cleaning up the thermal sock, the wire for the hotend must have dislodged internally so a $69 hotend lived for 6 weeks and I got a E3D Lite V6 for $30 but the heat break snapped on the first print. This is how I ended up looking into Aliexpress, eBay, and Amazon. I ordered an E3D v6 extruder from each site since they were all cheap and about $11 or less and so far the one from Amazon is the best and had fastest shipping. It took a bit of modification to work on the PrintrBot Simple but it was worth it… sort of. Hack-sawing aluminum is not fun and I highly don’t recommend it. Unfortunately, some printed parts warped so I can’t finish the frame and I didn’t go in order of the D-bot guide so I will have to do some disassembling. Now that my hotend is temporarily fixed, I can re-print some of the parts.

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